G R

I found a few "cons" potential buyers should consider. Pros easy install. Cons The door will not fully latch unless you press on it until you hear a pronounced "click" Actual width is about 14" wider than advertised due to the compressor tubing sticking out by that amount (top right back). The wire racks are WAAAY TOO weak to support any reasonable weight without bending downward. I've had to make a center support from top of glass cover to the top of the fridge to prevent this. Depending on where you vertically set the wire racks relative to the door shelves contents will come off the shelves and fall out of the fridge when you open the door. The factory specs list a 400W power draw at about 70 F ambient temp (24 hour). My measurements show its more like 650W - a considerable difference. Amp draw varies a little but is about 3.5A. To maintain a propersafe 35-38F internal temp (at 70F ambient) the power setting must be at around 6.5 out of 7. Why have settings 1-6.5?(!). BTW, my install exceeded the required air "gaps" (for circulation) around the fridge (which can cause the fridge to run excessively and not cool properly - very important). The flip up freezer door will partially open when the fridge door is closed (usually due to some item at the front of the freezer pushing against it). This will cause the fridge to run more than needed. Why in the world wouldn't you design the inner surface of the fridge door (when closed) to keep the freezer door closed? (!). The covers over the anchoring screw holes need to be slightly larger in diameter to keep the covers from falling out. Finally, the fridge interior light is really lame. It would have been much better to install another on the left side.